Unofficial Rear Eliminator Success!


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  • #28534
    AvatarDuncam
    Participant

    After doing my front signals, I was inspired to relocate the rear signals and add a fender eliminator. My personal preference is to have the plate and signals up by the tail for two reasons – 1) Its way easier for cars to notice my signals and 2) I REALLY don’t like the ascetics of the fender over the wheel.

    I looked into several options, but after checking out the forum I was inspired by @luwys007. I ordered the same eliminator as off Amazon (Amazon Link) because it was cheap, The look matches the futurist vibe of the bike, and most importantly it’s VERY adjustable. Having rolled my own eliminator of several previous bikes and being not a small guy (6′ 2″, 220) plate scrape is a real issue, so I needed a way to get a flatter plate angle.

    The Process

    The actual removal of the rear fender is simple – just follow the guide in the manual. The only difficult part is getting at the star nuts on the inside of the chain guide. Once everything is unbolted, I rerouted the wiring. Here’s where I differ from what @Luwys007 did – Instead of leaving the wire at an angle, you can unclip it and pull it to the right side of the bike. There’s a gap that the wiring can slip through, and you end up with a ton of excess (I coiled and zip-tied it in the underseat area) See pictures:

    Stock wire route

    My re-route

    On my bike:

    Once the wire was re-routed, I went to work on the eliminator. I built a steel bracket, but ended up just drilling some holes in the undertail and mounting the eliminator with carriage bolts, washers, and rubber gaskets. The bracket turned out to be complicated to align and required a bunch of bolting. There also ends up being a bit of a gap between it and the undertail, so it felt less stable. I know some people get squeamish about cutting/modding body work. I’m not one of those people.

    The elimintor also fits PERFECTLY between the plugs in the undertail.

    I went with carriage bolts because the square piece below the head fit inside the eliminator and I didn’t want anyone to be able to unbolt it from out side. It also looks a lot cleaner, and using a rubber gasket, you can slide it over the square to seal the bolt. Here’s a drawing of what I did:

    attachment

     

    This turned out to be surprisingly stable, and there’s (barely) enough room to slip a wrench in in front of the taillight in the compartment to tighten everything.

    After that it was just the wiring everything up and routing from the eliminator into the tail. I had some RF shielding laying around (RF Cable Shield), so I thought it would look cool wrap the wiring in it. Gave the bike a cleaner look that having things electrical tape wrapped around it, but it is a bit of a process to get the wiring inside.

    For the signals, I used the bike masters you can get on the forum to match the front. I used the same solder tube – heat shrink process I used on the front to attach the signals and plate light to the salvaged wiring connectors. Used painters tape to mark the correct signals.

    At that point, it was really just shoving wires through the gaps left by the plugs:

    and then bolting everything back into place. The plugs leave enough room to hold the wiring ice and snug:

    Final Result:

     

    Bonus Shot – WAY brighter than stock, and much more visible:

    #28557
    AvatarDuncam
    Participant

    Realized I didn’t add a good shot of the wiring coming out of the grab handle plugs with the shielding. The plate light and right signal go through the right plug, the left signal goes through the left. i tried all 3 on one side and it looked clunky and was SLIGHTLY too thick for the plug to fit properly:

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by AvatarDuncam.
    #28672
    AvatarBobby B
    Participant

    Amazing write up.  this would have been really helpful when I did mine.  thanks for posting

    #29584
    AvatarSancheezy
    Participant

    I built mine from some flat bar and a few pieces of reber.  I mounted it the same way stock bar was attached.  I moved the existing lights up onto rack.  I also added a few tie of points you will noticed the straps.  This works alot better than the stock bar and allowed me to move blinkers up.

    #29585
    AvatarSancheezy
    Participant

    Here is a picture from rear

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