Roadlok Review

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    Here’s my Roadlok review.  There is a different stock number for the 401 & 701 sizes so choose carefully

    The installation is very easy and is outlined here:

    The only additional tip is that instead of someone gripping the front brake lever to keep the caliper in place, just use a zip tie, which is easily removed once the Roadlok is on.

    The kit comes with a variety of different thickness washers to line up the locking pin with the disc holes.  I used the second thinnest set of washers, as the thinnest set interfered with the caliper body.

    The only tools required are a T45 Torx (remove stock caliper bolts) and a Allen head wrench.


    • Very nice quality of cnc machining and anodize
    • Fast 5 minute installation
    • In lieu of lining up the locking pin and the disc hole, the front wheel can be rotated an inch or so and the sprung pin will ‘lock’ in place.


    • No instructions
    • Allen hex head bolts to replace the stock Torx, should be security bolts
    • Achilles weakness – see below

    I can not recommend this product for overnight and multihour locking, if your bike will be out of your site for a long time.

    The reason why is this:

    A thief can unbolt the allen bolts to release the caliper.  People have stated “sure, but the locking pin is still engaged to the disc”.  This is  100% true.

    Unfortunately, the same nice feature which allows front wheel to be rotated an inch or so and the sprung pin will ‘lock’ in place, also means that the lock pin is never locked to the bike(!).  It is only locked to the Roadlok body.

    Then all a thief needs to do is to press on the spring loaded pin with a ball point pen, until the spring pin is otu of the disc hole, and then the loose Roadlock is totally disengaged from the disc and bike.

    This can probably take place in under 1 minute with no more tools than an allen wrench and a pen.  The bike can then be rolled silently away.

    I would encourage Roadlok to modify their design such that there is a locking pin, once the pin is engaged in the disc hole, it is securely lock so that it can not be removed from the disc, even if the caliper is removed.

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    Oh dear, I have one of these and whilst it is easy and convenient to use, I was already annoyed that after I bought mine from Husqvarna, I found out that I could have bought exactly the same product from Roadlok directly and saved well over £150. And now I find out that it’s easy for a thief to remove it, I’m not impressed at all.

    Going to have to get some security bolts to replace the standard Allen-head ones at the very least >:-(


    OK, so I have had a good look at my Roadlok and I cannot see anywhere where you can push the spring-loaded pin out with a ball point pen. It looks pretty secure to me. Can you post a pic showing where the “achilles weakness” actually is please?


    Yes, Vanessa, you are correct, the backside of the lock has a solid backing piece.  However, the action I described is still true.  A pen won’t work, but a curved piece of metal may fit in there enough to lever against the spring pressure.

    You are also correct on the cost, at KTM parts the Husqvarna Roadlok is just over $300.

    The generic Roadlok is $199 on thier site.  The only difference is that the Husqvarna Roadlok has the Husqvarna logo laser etched on.  Is this worth $100 extra?  You can decide.

    Also, for the holiday, Roadlok is offering 25% off, so now the generic Roadlok is now only $150.  For the limited security offered, I think that is a good price point. (for 701 it is the 100mm bolt spacing left caliper model)

    I do not mean to dissuade people from purchase, but to consider the potential uses of any security system.   I will continue to use mine, just looking for security bolts for the calipers that are long enough….


    I certainly don’t think that the Husqvarna logo on the Roadlok is worth the extra £150 that I paid.

    I have had a go but could not lever the spring loaded pin out when it’s snapped into place. Mine is a snug fit into the disc brake holes and the weight of the bike rolling the wheel as I try to prise the pin out, plus the very small gap around the disc contributes to making it extremely difficult indeed to prise the pin back. I’m happy enough that it is a sufficiently annoying deterrent to a thief to be a worthwhile addition to my security arsenal. It is just one of many different security systems and devices that I use to protect my bike. But still a worthwhile one to me.

    I will definitely be changing out the caliper bolts for security ones though, and for the price, it’s something I think that Roadlok should have included.


    I have just purchased a Roadlok for my Vitpilen 701, bought direct due to the savings you both have mentioned already. If you find security bolts that work let us know Venessa?

    Do either of you have a photo of it installed on the bike? 🙂


    Hi mitchot, I will post up as soon as I have sourced some suitable ones.

    If you look at my other thread: “Making Evotech Performance parts fit” there is a photo where you can see the Roadlok. Not a great photo, but it’s all I have right now.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 9 months ago by VanessaVanessa.

    Just installed my Roadlok, very happy with the results and the locking mechanism. Outside of maybe finding security bolts, I really like this setup. My pin ends up in the holes marked by the read circles.

    I used the 90mm bolts, with the B spacers, gave me around 17mm thread (stock was 15mm).


    Nice pics, I wonder if the 90mm bolts are what are used on my bike, or if the 401 install uses different bolts to the 701? Guess the only way I’m going to find out is to remove one and measure it.

    I think that the Roadlok is a good piece of kit, wish I could fit one to my MT-07, but alas it doesn’t have radial mounted calipers.

    AvatarKirkish Delight

    <p style=”text-align: left;”>Hmm, weirdly i tried the 90mm bolts with second smallest spacers and it won’t click into place.</p>
    Going to have to try the other spacers one by one, this may take a while…


    The bolt length shouldn’t affect the pin lining up with one of the holes in the brake disc, should just be the spacer. I didn’t use the shims as well just the single spacer.

    I originally chucked on the A spacer, tightened just the bottom bolt and rotated the front wheel until the hole was lining up, checked and saw it was off by a few mm, so switched to next size spacer and was all good.

    AvatarKirkish Delight

    Yeah, i went with size D spacers in the end (16.26mm).

    If anyone is interested the torque rating for the caliper bolts is 45.nm. I used a bit of loctite on them too.

    As mentioned above strongly recommend purchasing from Roadloks website rather than Husqvarna. They have a 10% off deal at the moment too.


    Maybe I should check mine, probably used D haha.

    Also if anyone is running a de-cat, I used one of these spacers to remove the front exhaust hanger 😊👍


    Hi all!

    We’d just like to confirm that the lock is not vulnerable to the attack described above using a ball point pen or even a bent piece of metal.

    The lock is only fully engaged once the pin has passed through a hole in the brake disc, at which point there would be no access to the locking pin in order to attempt to defeat the lock as described.

    To make sure the lock is fully engaged, once the pin is in you should roll the bike forward or backward slightly (a few cm) until you hear the audible “click” of the locking pin engaging through a a brake disc hole.  Once you hear that, the bike should not be able to move forward or back at all – completely immobilised. If the mounting bolts are removed, the lock will still function as a traditional disc lock and will keep your bike secure.

    Any questions or concerns be sure to shoot us an email to .  Our locks were recently ART certified in the Netherlands, one of the strictest testing protocols for locking devices in Europe, so you don’t have to just take our word for it that there is no simple way to defeat the lock.

    Ride safe!


    Max KoolMax Kool

    “If anyone is interested the torque rating for the caliper bolts is 45.nm. I used a bit of loctite on them too.”

    You sure about that?? That sounds very high. On most bikes (my previous Ducati, current FTR1200 and many others if you look it up) this is around 26-28Nm. And if you use Loctite -blue-, make sure you properly align your caliper before you bolt it down. Caliper alignment is very important on radial calipers.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 6 months ago by Max KoolMax Kool.
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