Replacing Bars and Fitting Heated Grips


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  • #37094
    James
    Participant

    Hopefully this is in the right place. I’ve replaced the handlebars on my 2019 Svartpilen 401 and fitted heated grips. There was information here & there, but I though I could pull it all together and that this might be useful to someone.

    The original bars are quite wide and don’t have much sweep backwards. As a result, I’d found my wrists aching after a few hours on the bike, so decided to replace them. I wanted to keep a similar bar height and didn’t want them to be wider, so bought Renthal 754 Road Low bars.

    Even though the website says the width of the clamp section is 105mm and I measured the outer distance between my clamps to be greater, I’d seen other things that suggested they’d be OK. Someone had replaced the original FZS600 bars with these and a photo showed this section being wider than the Fazer bars. I measured my Fazer bars and knew they’d fit.

    I made the mistake of measuring diameter at the controls and didn’t realise that those sections were 7/8″ whereas the clamping section is 1″. The Renthal bars are 7/8″ everywhere. You’d think this wouldn’t be too big an issue, but it took me a while to solve. I bought some spacers that should’ve been bringing them up to 1″, but they turned out to be spacing to 1 1/8″. Most other people selling them had pictures that made it clear they also had the 1 1/8″ spacers.

    I eventually found some here that did the job. 1st photo below shows the smaller ones that I used next to the original ones that I’d bought.

    I did consider bar risers, but didn’t want to raise the bars or move them towards me, so that was out. I also looked at new clamps, but couldn’t find anything that would suit the rounded bit on the yoke that also had a 10mm mounting bolt.

    #37098
    James
    Participant

    I bought some 1mm thick rubber sheet from eBay and cut a couple of small pieces to go inside the controls between the bars and where the pin had been removed. I needed a bit of trial and error, but was eventually able to get a piece that allowed the controls to screw back together properly but also create enough friction that the controls didn’t rotate on the bars.

    Obviously this is most important on the throttle side, but the brake lever mounting point does have a lug that would stop the throttle control moving too far if it came loose.

    Sorry, no photos of the rubber. I’d guess I started at about 20mm by 10mm and cut it down until it worked.

    #37097
    James
    Participant

    Now those pins that hold the controls in place.

    Left side as you sit on the bike.

    Right side.

    I wasn’t confident enough to drill the new bars, so decided to remove the pins. I did this with a junior hacksaw blade, then tried to smooth things out with my Dremel. The sawing took quite a while as they’re metal or have a metal core, but it wasn’t too bad. You can see that I didn’t do a great job with the Dremel, but I won’t see it and wanted something left to create some friction (see next post).

    #37096
    James
    Participant

    Two things to note if you’re thinking of doing this. Stick the bike on a rear paddock stand. It’s a lot easier to get the bars centred with the spacers if it’s level. Mine was a faff. Also, the original bars having pins to hold the controls in place. You can either remove these or drill into the new bars, so it’s not a simple change.

    This next photo shows the similarities between the original and Renthal bars. Angles aren’t great, but hopefully the similar width and rise can be seen.

    When removing the controls, I cut the left grip off. Turns out it was probably easy to slide off with a bit of effort as the bars are smooth and there’s nothing to keep it in place. That said, the right grip had to be cut off later to fit the heated grips, so I couldn’t save the pair.

    #37102
    James
    Participant

    I’ll go off on a brief tangent to go over the mirrors. Vanessa had said she’d fitted mirrors from the KTM Duke 390 and had kindly provided part numbers, but I’m a cheapskate and found them cheaper at Wemoto. The trouble is there are 2 different size (that I know of). The 2019 on bikes have larger mirrors and I wasn’t sure which to try, so ordered both.

    The photo below shows the later model in the middle along with the older one and the original. I decided I wanted as wide as possible so went for the 2019 models, which are part numbers AG5441 and AG5442 at Wemoto. They were just over £17 each and seem to be genuine KTM parts.

    These remove the need for the little riser things that the original mirrors fit into. The threads are reversed compared to the original mirrors, so bear in mind that you’ll lose that extra height.

    #37101
    James
    Participant

    So the bars are now fitted. The original bar end weights won’t fit into the Renthal bars, so I decided to try bar end mirrors instead as the originals are only good for checking my arms are still attached.

    Ignore the new Oxford grips on this one, I’ve jumped into the future. I eventually decided against the bar end mirrors. I might be able to get used to the odd position, but everything in them seems further away, which I decided could be dangerous. Shame, they’re quite dinky & fold easily for moving the bike in the garage.

    So I’ve now gone for KTM mirrors (I’ll come to those next) and Oxofrd BarEnds 3.

    #37104
    James
    Participant

    Moving onto the heated grips. I bought the Oxford Advanced Retro grips. Partly because they’re the same length as the originals and partly because I’d seen some fitted to another Svart and thought they looked quite good.

    As mentioned, the left grip is easy to remove, but the right one has to be cut off as the throttle tube has”bits” that make it near impossible. If you fit Oxford grips, you’ll need to remove these bits.

    I used a junior hacksaw to get most of them off, then a file to smooth things even more. Again, it doesn’t look pretty, but is hidden from view. This was my first attempt.

    Unfortunately, I still couldn’t get the Oxford grip started on the tube like that, so had to use the file again to smooth all ridges and create a bit more of a taper at the outer end to get the grip started. No photo, but I didn’t need any adhesive to keep the grip in place.

    The left one took a bit of effort to get on as the Renthal bars are knurled there, but it did go on and also doesn’t need adhesive.

    #37106
    James
    Participant

    The next problem was mounting the controller for the grips. Oxford supply a weird bracket that I think is designed to fit onto a clutch lever using the 2 blots that hold it to the bars. Our bike doesn’t have that arrangement for the clutch. From memory, I don’t think it worked well on the brake side either. They don’t supply or sell anything that attaches straight onto the bars and the controller has nowhere that cable ties could be attached.

    I ended up having to drill an 11mm hole (I think) in the bracket and mounting it to the mirror point, which seems to work OK. I’m also thinking I might be able to fit a USB socket there as well.

    #37109
    James
    Participant

    The next step was to cable everything up. The Oxford Advanced are designed to connect straight to the battery, so I decided to route the cables along the right hand side of the bike.

    First step was to remove the side panel, which is fairly straight forward, but just to show that this is what I did. First time I undid far too much and lost a screw, despite keeping them all in a tray. The garage fairy probably got it.

    Pop the seat and there’s 1 screw near the tank, which is the one I lost. Remove that along with the 4 screws holding the tank bag bracket on. Take the bracket off along with the 4 spacers. Undo the large screw (is it a bolt, I can’t remember?) at the bottom of the side panel.

    You should now be able to gently pull the side panel away at the front as it has a push fit at that point. The rear is a similar mount, but is a bit easier to free up. Just move the panel out slightly, then pull forwards. See the photos for these mount points.

    #37110
    James
    Participant

    On the right side, remove the plastic cover marked in the photo below. Also note how exposed this side is with the side panel in place. I didn’t realise that originally, so had to go back & reroute the cables.

    In the photo below, I’ve tried to show the route that I’ve taken for the power cable, marked in red. There’s a rubber strap holding a tube to the frame along that route, so I added the cable there, being careful not to squeeze the tube.

    Where the cover has been removed, I’ve fitted the cable, wrapping the exposed coloured wires around that round bit (not sure what it is, hope it doesn’t get hot). You can also see where the cables for the left and right grips connect to the main power cable.

    It’s not very clear in this photo, but I’ve cable tied the cable for the controller and left grip to the clutch cable. etc. I couldn’t work them through the forks anywhere so they come in behind the forks.

    I found that the left grip cable had to go a lot further than the right one and Oxford don’t sell extensions, so the right cable is folded up a little and tied up behind the headlight. Nothing seems to get tight when steering is locked and I don’t think anything is rubbing anywhere. I’ve not got a good photo of that yet, I’ll take one when I get a chance.

    Obviously put everything back, I’ve missed those steps out!

    I bought this fastener kit from eBay hoping it’d have the missing screw for the side panel, which it did. I did originally fit an M6 bolt that I had spare, but it was bothering me and I thought having a few spares might come in handy.

    The changed handlebar position has made longer rides loads better for me. And the heated grips at the lowest setting take the edge off in the early Spring temperatures here. The KTM mirrors are a lot better, I can see what’s behind me.

    #37114
    Vanessa
    Participant

    Nice Post with lots of detail. What are those hand guards if you don’t mind me asking?

    #37118
    James
    Participant

    Thanks, hopefully it’ll be of use to someone. If not, it’ll remind me what I did when I’ve forgotten in 6 months.

    I wanted some cheap hand guards to see how much difference they made through Winter and wasn’t ready to replace the bars at that point, so wanted some that were simple to mount. I went for these ones from eBay.

    You’ve reminded me now that I’d meant to look at better ones as an alternative to new bar ends. Ah well, these can stick around for a while. When I had the bar end mirrors, I found that my hand was a bit squashed on the throttle, so something like the Oxford guards might not work for me. No crazy hands here, my gloves are large size.

    #37119
    James
    Participant

    I might as well add the phone holder while I’m at it. With all these extra bits, including the screen, it does make the bike look a bit front heavy compared to the original, but I’m still happy with the look of it.

    I went for this one from Amazon. In hindsight, I should’ve gone for the small size, but I’m probably covered for phones getting even bigger. It’s huge, but the mount means I can easily position it so it doesn’t block anything else. I can also buy RAM mounts for my other bikes and quickly move it to those.

    Next job is to fit a USB socket. The phone holder has a hole for a power cable, so I won’t run out of power on longer rides. I’m using the Beeline app, which is free and lets me build custom routes, rather than Google’s A to B directions.

    • This reply was modified 3 months ago by James.
    #37121
    Vanessa
    Participant

    Those do seem very good value. Looks like they might provide more wind protection than the Oxford ones on my bike.

    I went with the KTM/Daytona heated grips, which the dealer (Gear4 Motorcycles) fitted for me. They worked out well, with the small control panel fitting directly to the bars with the included perch.

    Just fitted a set of Oxford heated grips to my Kawi ZH2, went for the new ‘Evo’ ones with individual heat sensing for each grip. They work well but the large control panel is difficult to install discretely, and I found the included bracket was useless, so made my own. Heated grips are pretty essential in the UK if you ride throughout the year. The Kawi ones were very expensive at £300 plus fitting. The Oxford ones were a third of that price and well worth it.

    The original Husqvarna mirrors are pretty terrible IMHO, the KTM 390 ones are much better, which is a bit surprising as they’re essentially the same company/bike. Makes me wonder how they signed off two very different mirrors, who was engineering these things? Feels like a rush job or cost saving on Huskys part.

    • This reply was modified 3 months ago by Vanessa.
    #37123
    James
    Participant

    The last time I had heated grips was on a Royal Enfield Bullet when that was my transport all year long, maybe 12 years ago. It might be my age, but I agree about the need for them now. Even last weekend, I had them on, though at the lowest setting, and they made a big difference. Now that I’m keeping my Fazer, I think I’ll probably add some on there as well.

    The mounting position on the Husky is OK, but I can’t quite press the buttons easily without taking my hand off the grip. I might be able to move it round to get around that but didn’t want to interfere with my indicators. A smaller controller would be nice, but I think my bars are beyond discreet at this point.

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