Tagged: Oil Filter
November 22, 2020 at 4:34 am #33040Vitpilen401NZParticipant
First time posting, so go easy! Thought I’d do a brief summary of my first oil service on my Vitpilen 401 and share my learnings. Also after a few answers!
Ive had my vitpilen for a few weeks, have put 2000km on the clock and loving it. I’ve also got a classic motorcycle (1971 Honda CB350) as well as my vitpilen. I cafe racer’d my CB350 so no stranger to motorcycle modifications, maintenance and mechanical work (far from an expert though….), so figured Id be able to do the oil filter change and service on my vitpilen no worries, but it wasn’t as easy as I was hoping…
I bought the oil service kit for $50 NZD from a KTM dealership, which I thought was a fair price. It came with both the screens, the oil filter, O-Rings and Oil Drain plug. However the oil drain plug appeared to be second hand (anyone else uncovered this?) so I used the original oil drain plug, but swapped over the new O-Ring. I also bought two litres of Motorex 4T 10W60, for $37 a litre (thought that was pricey!?)
I got the bike to operating temperature (4 bars on the temp gauge), used an 18mm socket to remove the oil drain plug and screen. I had leant the bike over in my driveway so the bike was on more of a lean, draining more fuel. I then took out the other screen drain plug, using a 13mm socket. Finally I removed the oil filter, using an 8mm socket to remove the 2 bolts. Then hade to use a screwdriver to pry out the oil filter. If you have an O-Ring removal tool, use that as it will be easier.
Left the bike to drain for a while. Then I worked in reverse. I installed the new oil filter, and put the new o ring on the oil filter cover. I then bolted in the oil cover. Now I didn’t have a torque wrench, so I made sure not to bolt these in too much. However, I’ve read these bolts are notoriously weak, and the crank case is aluminium, so you have to be careful with these. I’ve seen in other forums (ktm 390), people have snapped these bolts.
Put the other two screens in and the other drain plugs. Added in the oil (~1.7L worth) however I didn’t have a funnel, and the oil hole in these crank cases is horribly small and angled so I made a mess of this. Highly recommend a funnel.
Here’s where shit got way trickier than I thought…. you have to have the bike at operating temp to properly gauge your oil level. I put in 1.7L of oil, as stated in the manual, which ended up being too much. So then I had to drain a couple hundred mL before starting the bike up. Started the bike up, observed no leaks, so thought that was job done.
Came back the next day and found a few oil drops on the garage floor…. not ideal. Decided that I needed to torque up all the bolts properly, so bought a torque wrench (I already had one but the Nm range was too high) and torqued up the oil filter bolts to 10Nm, the small oil drain plug/screen to 12Nm and then the main oil drain plug to 15Nm. I then got the bike level, and checked the oil level. It looked good. Decided I’d get it running again to check for any more oil leaks. Got it running, took it for a lil ride, and still a minor leak in the oil filter cover. (See attached photos, has anyone else had this!?)
When I checked the oil level again, it was now below the lowest level 🙄. So then I got the bike level, added in what I could and got it just above the bottom level. However I have no oil left now so I need to go buy another L of that hella expensive oil, just to top it up.
I think my oil leak may have settled down now. I think the torque adjustments made a difference (follow the manual kids) but I still need to monitor them.
– Buy your parts from a KTM dealer/online but make sure their authentic/genuine parts.
– Invest in a torque wrench and use this for all your bolts.
– Ensure your bike is 100% horizontal and level when refilling you oil. Fill to the top line. Run your bike until at temperature, turn off, leave for 1-2 minutes and then recheck your oil level. It should have reduced in level as the oil has reached temperature and filled the galleries in the engine. Top up again if necessary, it probably will be.
– Invest in a funnel and O Ring remover
– Check your bike for leaks afterwards. Avoid the below…
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