Engine performance & low cost.


Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #33503
    AvatarAthal
    Participant

    Hi everyone!

    This is my receipt for real engine performance with contained costs…

    You will need all this material and do the installation in this order:

    1.- Fuel Pressure Regulator: 3.5 Bar 42€
    https://www.ebay.es/itm/143436713786

    Stock FPR is rated @ 3.0 BAR. This 3.5 BAR will improve idle because of fuel atomisation and enrich the open loop side of the throttle AFR to compensate more airbox flow and exhaust flow. No need for piggyback ECU, remap, bigger injector and all that messy expensive crappy stuff. Let stock ECU do the job. Injector flow also depends on fuel pressure ( not only in the size of the holes).

    You will need to disassemble the gas tank and extract the fuel pump assembly to install the new FPR…

    2.- Iridium sparkplug: LKAR9BI9 – NGK 17,54€
    https://www.ebay.es/itm/273415838344

    With the fuel tank removed you will have easy access to the spark plug. Iridium spark plug allows bigger initial flame kernel and faster flame propagation. Also it can last for 40.000km or more, so less frequent need to service it.

    3.- Decat pipe: Arrow 310€
    https://www.ebay.fr/itm/124445569103

    For the 2020 model Decat pipe is full exhaust pipe so is more expensive, but 2019 and previous models can Decat for 90€…

    4.- Exhaust Wrap: 8,44€
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152998220069

    Before installing the Decat pipe you absolutely must wrap your exhaust tube (and Decat pipe). In 2019 and previous versions, the exhaust runs aside the TBI and air intake manifold. This caused heat soak and lack of performance due to air intake increased temperature.

    2020 models should also wrap because it helps keep the combustion gases hotter and this improve flow velocity. So wrap all that crap…

    5.- Air box lid: DNA P-KT3N20-S2 56€
    https://www.e-dnafilters.es/product/Stage-2-and-3-Applications/KTM/DNA-1609/KTM-ADVS2/KTM-Adventure-Series-(2020)-DNA-Air-Filter-Stage-2-P-KT3N20-S2

    This is the best air box lid. It increases air flow to the engine and make the engine sound as a big bad boy (BBB). So don’t save money on this. Keep the stock air filter because max RPM doesn’t change.

    6.- Mo Cool Motul: 11,50€

    More power, more need to heat dissipation… KTM 390 and our 401’s are famous for overheating and continuous fan operation. So ad Mo Cool to the cooling fluid. If necessary, drain some coolant to make room for this additive.

    7.- Militec1: 17€
    https://www.ebay.de/itm/361256657057

    Metal conditioner, the best drag reductor in the world. It doesn’t change original oil density, no sludge or metal deposits, no problems with bike’s wet clutch… The engine will run smooth, cooler, with less wearing. Also the less drag between engine moving parts the more power to the rear wheel. Add to the motor oil every 20.000km. 2020 model with quickshifter works incredible with this stuff…

    8.- 43Teeth rear sprocket: 60€
    https://www.ebay.de/itm/352575716136

    We’re increasing engine performance, so we’re applying more torque to the rear wheel. This bike has no slip control so this 43 teeth low weight and tough rear sprocket will slighly reduce rear wheel applied torque and also improve bike’s final speed.

    Stock intermediate muffler, stock tail muffler, no money spent on “slip on  sound”. Sound doesn’t make power, and just only one “slip on idiot” can disturb thousands of neighbours in a big city…

    This is all: 500€ for 2020 models and 300€ for 2019 and previous models.

    Engineers made a superb engine but respecting Euro4 emissions. I respect burning fuel in the chamber to make power with efficiency instead of burning fuel @ the cat to produce heat.

    #33530
    AvatarAthal
    Participant

    Hi everyone!

    This is my full recipe for real engine performance with contained costs…

    You will need all this material and do the installation following this order:

    1.- Fuel Pressure Regulator: 3.5 Bar 42€
    https://www.ebay.es/itm/143436713786

    Stock FPR is rated @ 3.0 BAR. This 3.5 BAR will improve idle because of better fuel atomisation and enrich the open loop side of the throttle AFR to compensate more airbox flow and exhaust flow. No need for piggyback ECU, remap, bigger injector and all that messy expensive crappy stuff. Let stock ECU do the job.

    You will need to disassemble the gas tank and extract the fuel pump assembly to install the new FPR…

    2.- Iridium sparkplug: LKAR9BI9 – NGK 17,54€
    https://www.ebay.es/itm/273415838344

    With the fuel tank removed you will have easy access to the spark plug. Iridium spark plug allows bigger initial flame kernel and faster flame propagation. Also it can last for 40.000km or more, so less frequent need to service it.

    3.- Decat pipe: Arrow 310€
    https://www.ebay.fr/itm/124445569103

    For the 2020 model, decat pipe is the full header pipe so it’s more expensive, but 2019 and previous models can decat for 90€…

    4.- Exhaust Wrap: 8,44€
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152998220069

    Before installing the Decat pipe you absolutely must wrap the exhaust header (and Decat pipe). In 2019 and previous versions, the exhaust runs aside the TBI and air intake manifold. This caused heat soak and lack of performance due to air intake increased temperature. Hot air in the intake manifold induces engine knocking.

    2020 models should also wrap because it helps keep the combustion gases hotter and this improve flow velocity. So wrap all that crap…

    5.- Air box lid: DNA P-KT3N20-S2 56€
    https://www.e-dnafilters.es/product/Stage-2-and-3-Applications/KTM/DNA-1609/KTM-ADVS2/KTM-Adventure-Series-(2020)-DNA-Air-Filter-Stage-2-P-KT3N20-S2

    This is the best air box lid. It increases air flow to the engine and make the engine sound as a big bad boy (BBB). So don’t save money on this. Keep the stock air filter because engine’s max RPM will remain the same as stock.

    6.- Mo Cool Motul: 11,50€

    The more power, the more need to heat dissipation… KTM 390 and our 401’s are famous for overheating and continuous fan operation. So ad Mo Cool to the cooling fluid. If necessary, drain some coolant to make room for this additive.

    7.- Militec1: 17€
    https://www.ebay.de/itm/361256657057

    Metal conditioner, the best drag reductor in the world. It doesn’t change original oil density, no sludge or metal deposits, no problems with bike’s wet clutch… The engine will run smooth (less vibration), cooler, with less wearing. Also the less drag between engine moving parts the more power to the rear wheel. 2020 model quickshifter (“easy shift”) runs espectacular with Miltec1 in the carter.

    8.- 43Teeth rear sprocket: 60€
    https://www.ebay.de/itm/352575716136

    We’re increasing engine performance, so we’re applying more torque to the rear wheel. This bike has no slip control so this rear sprocket will slightly reduce rear wheel applied torque when getting out the curves and also improves bike’s top speed. No need to modify chain length with this sprocket…

    9.- High octane fuel: this engine has high compression ratio: 12,5:1 and runs on the lean side AFR (Euro4). To avoid engine knocking (pinging) use high octane gasoline. Also from time to time use shell V-Power NITRO to clean carbon build up in combustion chamber, valve heads and spark plug. Carbon spots induce knocking.

    Stock mid muffler, stock tail muffler, stock Db killer, no money spent in sound. Sound doesn’t make power. How many thousands of neighbours in a big city can be disturbed by just only one slip on idiot??? If engine max RPM is not increased, hardly the stock muffler will be restrictive. Power= RPM * Torque. Yes, increasing engine’s max RPM is good for power but it also affect engine durability and that’s not budget…

    This is all: 500€ for 2020 models and 300€ for 2019 and previous models.

    Mattighoffen engineers made a superb engine respecting Euro4 emissions. I respect burning fuel in the chamber to make power with efficiency instead of burning up fuel @ the cat to produce heat…

    Those of you that say “if you want more power buy a bigger bike” are right. Spending thousands of € in a small engine performance increase is not worth. But you are also snob and lack of technical knowledge. Real improvement can be done on this engine without spending too much…

    This forum doesn’t allow to edit the post…

    #33541
    LozionLozion
    Participant

    👌🏽👍🏽👊🏼

    #33544
    AvatarKardon
    Participant

    has anyone a guide like this for a 701 😬😅

    #33683
    JBJRracing.comJBJRracing.com
    Participant

    Hi.  Thanks for this.  Some questions & comments:

    1. This idea that the fuel pressure regular is all that is needed is of course very interesting.  Where did you come up with this idea, may I ask?  Though this makes sense that it would help, it I’m just not sure if it makes sense, on the surface, that this could take the place of a piggy back or ECU flash as both of those change more than just fueling (ignition; raising rev limiter; etc.).  Do you have any tests that actually show results of this?  What happens if you make this modification and also run the piggy back?

    2. There seems to be an epic debate on all forums as to whether or not iridium spark plugs increase performance on motorcycles.  They certainly last longer.

    3. Decat is always a good idea for performance increases.  Good stuff here.

    4. I wasn’t aware of this heat soaking problem.  Where is there data, or even opinions on this?  I’m looking at the exhaust routing on my bike (with the decat and de-silencer) and it doesn’t seem like it would be too bad.

    5.  The air box, not the filter, does seem to be the airflow restriction on these engines, so I agree that the high-flow lid, and simply keeping the stock air filter, is an improvement.  The owner of Coober also says that the stock air filter is fine and that the airbox is the bottleneck.

    6. I didn’t know that these bikes had a cooling problem.  I just got mine, and have the regular mods (high flow air filter; full exhaust; piggy back ECU controller) and haven’t had the temp get anywhere above the mid point.

    7. The advantage, or lack thereof, of oil additives, is another epic motorcycle debate.  There seems to be a lot of evidence and opinion that most [good] modern synthetics are already fortified with everything one would need or want.

    8. 43t sprocket: I wouldn’t call making the gear ratio taller an increase in performance.  If anything, it is usually considered the opposite.  Yes, it increases top speed, but decreases torque and drive and acceleration. I guess more of a preference than a performance improvement.

    9. High octane fuel: Well, not really an “improvement” as we all know that it’s required to run on this bike, but yes, you provide some good info about the bike’s high compression (like all singles) and the need for high octane fuel.

    The digressions on sound are interesting, but aren’t really relevant to performance.  If top performance is what the goal is, then a full exhaust, and not stock, is always the better option.  I agree about having a city bike that isn’t too loud.  But for track / offroad, this isn’t really an issue.  Same with your provided notions on raising rev limiter and longevity.  Raising rev limiter for sure increases performance, and if that is the goal, it needs to be done.

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.