Tagged: ECU idle stall
August 7, 2018 at 8:35 pm #1437
I had experienced a couple instances where as I was approaching a stop from a stretch of sporty riding, I had the engine cut out on me as I was shifting down to neutral or first while decelerating quickly.
I chalked those instances up to maybe the clutch cable wasn’t adjusted properly or I didn’t pull the clutch in all the way and I was essentially stalling; or possibly some weird fueling issue.
I had my first dealer service at 600miles, they couldn’t replicate the issue, and it really didn’t happen that often so I thought I was fine.
However, just today as I came to a stop the entire bike shut down, engine and all electrical went dark. Then some weird text came up on the dash , something like “J.Y.1.02 …” but it wasn’t on the screen very long. With the key still in the run position, the electrical wouldn’t power back on that quickly. I had to pull over, and turn the key off and on multiple times and eventually electrical came back.
When it came back I noticed all my time and trip information had cleared, so it makes me think the entire ECU had glitched out and reset.
Anyone experience any of the above?August 7, 2018 at 8:57 pm #1439LazyTomParticipant
I got that message multiple times when I reconnected the battery while I was changing the rear signal indicators. Maybe check the battery?August 8, 2018 at 2:05 pm #1443
I wish it was that simple. I did a check of the battery (terminals look good and secure, voltages good), and took off side covers and looked for any weird loose connections or brackets and didn’t see anything obvious.
On my ride today I noticed a weird little fart feeling like the engine misfired or something and maybe I saw the check engine light flash for just a brief moment, but it was gone before I was really able to look at the gauge so not 100% sure the light came on. But bike rode fine the rest of the way to work. Then I get to the garage and parked, turned the engine off but left the electronics on, and was taking a moment to reset the time on the dash from that last reset I described above. I got the time set and was checking out the other menus on the dash and then the electronics went completely dark again. This time it didn’t come back for a while, and I tried turning the key off, taking it out, back in , turn to run, still nothing after a couple attempts at turning the bike on.
Finally I pushed the bike forward a little and grabbed the front brake hard to make the nose dive and then it came back.
It really makes me think there is something weird with some electronics module bracket or harness causing something to move and disconnect or short and then glitch out. That would be consistent with the other times I’ve seen any of these issues during hard braking. I might go back in under the covers again to look for anything loose.
Anyone know where I should be looking for the most likely suspect? I assume its something somewhere in that cramped section of electronics under the gas tank.
Related side note: the KTM 390 Duke just had some recall specifically about an ECU bracket. It might have been India only for now, but seems like it might impact the ‘Pilen bikes as well, wonder if Husqvarna will notify us of anything there?August 8, 2018 at 6:11 pm #1447galavoxxParticipant
Sounds like you need to go back to the dealer, have them troubleshoot it since it is under warranty.August 8, 2018 at 7:39 pm #1448Vitpilen206Participant
1,100 miles with zero issues. I hope my luck continues.August 8, 2018 at 11:10 pm #1451
ugh, the drama continues. todays ride home included more glitches and erratic slow downs while riding. abs failure warning light, check engine light, engine shut off and electrical blackouts while riding or at a stop. then id get it started up again, and it would ride fine, and warnings were gone.
going to call husqvarna first and see what they know, then follow up with dealer and schedule an appt.August 8, 2018 at 11:41 pm #1452MaclovenParticipant
get that thing in before you get hurt! Hopefully it’s a simple electrical fix but clearly there is a problem that could leave you in a bad spot. the ecu must be tracking the error codes to help them figure out what is happening.August 9, 2018 at 3:52 am #1453TattooRichieParticipant
It sounds to me that you have either a loose or bad connection along the ECU circuit and/or a fault ECU that occurs when the part gets warm from use. Have Husky run the test.
BestAugust 12, 2018 at 5:11 pm #1476
poked around one more time today, checking for any loose connections I could see under the tank up by the steering head, and under the side covers and seat… checked all the fuses… generally just looking for anything out of place looking or signs of shorts, but no luck.
the gremlin continues to haunt the bike, and is getting angrier… the bike goes completely dark pretty regularly now, and will take a while before you can start it back up. the trigger for the bike to black out can be anything from trying to start the bike, to pulling in the brake lever, to decelerating and shifting down to first, or even just leaving the bike sitting ON without the engine running.
apparently husqvarna customer service number can’t help you with anything technical, so its time to make the service appointment with the dealer.August 15, 2018 at 10:41 pm #1507MaclovenParticipant
I had one flame out right after I bought the bike and hasn’t stalled since. But took a nice fairly leisurely cruise last night and twice while downshifting to a stop had a bit of a backfire or near flameout, but I kept rolling and it didn’t stall. Not loud but clearly a hiccup in the rpm’s. Seems something is going on when slowing down trying to stall it out. I still haven’t hit 300 miles and hoping no more stalls, and hopefully Husky/KTM will give a definitive explanation for this.August 16, 2018 at 2:43 am #1509JohnnyLightningParticipant
So, I’ve noticed that this only happens while downshifting, with the clutch disengaged…so I attempted to make some adjustments and when I took a good look, this is what I discovered.
Apparently, the cable has stretched far enough to fool the clutch switch to think the clutch is not engaged, and therefore shutting the engine down while downshifting. Not quite sure, but I’ve been drinking and that’s as good as I can explain it right now.August 17, 2018 at 1:13 pm #1524Anonymous
There is definitely a glitch in the mapping, i dont have any of the gremlins but you when I ride it hard and back off the engines stalls on me, annoying when backing it into turns motard style. I suspect it might be on the lean side, will take it in to local guru to run hard on the dyno and see what it says.August 17, 2018 at 6:29 pm #1528
The dealer tech dug around into my glitching bike, and the issue appears to be that the negative terminal plate of the battery has broken internally – caused by the seat bottoming out and putting pressure and rubbing on that terminal. I checked plenty of times that the battery cabling was secure, but its the terminal plate inside the battery cell that has broken loose.
He was able to reproduce the issue very often by getting the bike running and then just moving his weight around on the seat, and the engine would sputter or shut off, or all electrical would go dark, consistent with what I was experiencing. So depending on how you are riding the bike, and how your weight shifts on the seat you could be causing intermittent voltage drops, or complete loss of battery ground.
This could explain a lot for other people who have noticed intermittent stalls or electrical glitches while riding and shifting your weight.
What is interesting is that the recent KTM390 duke recall in India was partly because the seat was putting pressure on the tail light, causing them to crack. So its very possible this is a design flaw where there isn’t enough clearance below the seat.
Husqvarna is replacing the battery under warranty, and I asked the tech to see if he could add some clearance by either trying to lower the battery bracket or raise the seat so this doesn’t happen again with the new battery.August 17, 2018 at 6:38 pm #1529
@JohnnyLightning: sucks to see your frayed clutch cable, definitely get that fixed! But I don’t think your clutch switch theory holds up. The clutch switch is in the lever, so even though your cable is stretching (fraying in your case), you are still pulling the lever back the same distance so the switch should still act the same.October 3, 2018 at 4:48 pm #2315NOLOParticipant
Another case here. So far I had it happened only once, also following downshifting. But none of the predisposing factors previously mentioned. I will keep an eye so we can identify and resolve this issue.
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