Engine bogging down in 1st and 2nd gear – brand new bike


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  • #33017
    AvatarNic
    Participant

    Hi

    Got a new Svart 401 from Frasers in Sydney Australia with 150kms on the clock.

    I began noticing that accelerating in 1st the engine cuts out / bogs down at just before you switch into 2nd – between 25-30kph – and it also happens occasionally in 2nd gear as you accelerate.

    Usually occurs between 5-8000 revs. About 50% of the time the red rev light comes on which is set in the run in period to fire at 7500(?) revs according to the manual.

    (I’m a 50 year old rider who knows the difference between bogging down a small bike in a low gear and a mechanical problem – I’m 99% sure it’s not me….)

    I can replicate the problem about 30% of the time – you stop the bike, hit the gas, and the engine will cut out like you are engaging the anti slip function on the rear tyre. No, I don’t have the supermoto function engaged on the bike.

    It makes city riding incredibly jerky and not much fun.

    I’m going to get it looked at in my first service – but this is not what I expect from a brand new bike!

    Anyone have ideas?

    • This topic was modified 1 week, 1 day ago by AvatarNic.
    #33020
    Avatardashd21
    Participant

    Does the 401 have a quickshifter? I found this on my 701 that when I was applying slight pressure on the shifter mainly in the upshift direction it would bog down too, like the throttle just cut out (bike stayed on though). For me it was just the quickshifter killing the throttle anticipating a gear change, it’s really jerky when you’re not trying to change gears.

    I’ve fixed the issue with just keeping my foot clear of the shifter and also adjusting the shifter position so my foot can rest without touching it.

    Hope that helps.

    #33021
    AvatarNic
    Participant

    The salesman told me that the quickshifter wasn’t enabled in the 401 – and that to enable it required $$ and a change in the ecu.

    However – I’ll test it to see if pressure on the upshift is causing it (seems a bit of a crazy feature to me) – from my previous experience I don’t think it is but will test.

    Thanks for the hint 😉

    #33023
    AvatarNic
    Participant

    I tested it – it was exactly as you described – you can cause the quickshift throttle cutoff to engage just by putting a little bit of upwards pressure on the gear lever with your toe – but not enough to change the gear.

    I went for a test ride and continuously engaged it many times – without changing gear – and eventually the digital readout gave me a error saying QUICK SHIFTER  FAILURE

    Turning the bike off an on again removed the error code.

    I’ll get the shop to look at the quickshifter adjustment when I get the first service done – clearly its too sensitive / out of whack.

    Funny – the salesman said it DIDNT have a quickshifter!

    Thanks a heap.

     

     

    #33024
    David BrazilDavid Brazil
    Participant

    You can help this situation by making the toe-piece of the shifting arm higher, so it doesn’t engage as quickly relative to your clutching hand. I had the same problem on my ride home when I first bought the bike, and the QS engages prior to my clutching hand action, so they are slightly out of sync and the engine cuts out before I have the clutch in. Hated it, but then loosened the lock nuts and moved the linkage a little to move the shifter head up a little, so I have to move my foot more to engage the shift/QS. Worked perfectly, so now my clutch timing and shifting timing are in sync and the QS kicks in at a time I normally roll back the throttle and clutch in.

    Yes, you could just use the QS, but I LIKE to clutch/throttle/shift without the QS. That said, when my slave cylinder went out and blew out it’s guts, I quickshifted most of the way to the dealer and it actually works pretty well. I rarely use it, but sometimes its nice to have available.

    Good luck.

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