January 21, 2020 at 1:47 am #26902SquirrelParticipant
So with 113 miles on my bike I noticed it never felt like the clutch was fully disengaged when I pulled in the lever. When I first left the dealer with 0 miles on the bike it stalled when I came to the stoplight. I figured I just messed up and ignored it. After a little while I saw the fluid level go down ever so slightly. It either wasn’t bled properly or the slave cylinder has already failed. Knowing the slave cylinder is a known issue with the 690s etc I decided to upgrade.
I purchased a Rekluse slave cylinder for a 701 Super Moto (same part number as the Vitpilen) and just finished installing it.
When I pulled the stock slave cylinder a bunch of fluid came out. Behold, a torn boot from the factory! I’m also sure the o-ring has also failed as well (since there was fluid all over when I pulled the slave).
I have a question, should the counter shaft sprocket be rotating while in gear and the clutch lever pulled? I am still waiting for the other parts to come in to mount the rear 690 Duke rear wheel and can’t think of another way to check at the moment. Regardless this should be an improvement in feel because the return spring is stiffer and less likely to fail (due to the two o-ring design on the piston). Let me know if you have any idea on the counter shaft!
EJanuary 21, 2020 at 3:18 am #26907Christopher LeeParticipant
I did hear about this issue when getting mine. After they got mine assembled and I rode it around the dealership a little, there was a lot of stuff leaking around the same area. That’s when they mentioned this issue on a couple of others. Mine only ended up being from the chain 🙂
Once you get it back on the road, let me us know how you like the new slave, since I as well have experienced some odd stalling here and there.January 21, 2020 at 2:41 pm #26909karaiParticipant
@Squirrel, yeap the sprocket will rotate, just based on friction in clutch assy + oil. You can safely check it later when you will receive the parts and re-install the rear wheel / chain you should be able to apply rear brake without stalling in gear.
If still trying to rotate too hard, stalling / or you have to be pulled all the way on the clutch lever to work, most likely you still have a trap bubble of air somewhere in the clutch master/slave or line. Don’t forget to flush the clutch master as well like i did…did make a big difference 🙂January 21, 2020 at 5:25 pm #26920Max KoolParticipant
Sounds sad, but at some point they all fail it seems (well, ok, many).
I had the exact same symptoms. Clutch getting weaker and weaker, until it wouldn’t idle idle anymore in first gear at standstill, just killing the engine. I replaced mine with an Oberon slave cylinder.
It took me a bit of fidling to bleed it after the install. The best way seems to be to bleed it from the slave cylinder up with a syringe, and use the nipple on the master cylinder to let trapped air out. Good luck, this wil soon be over!January 26, 2020 at 12:31 am #27028SquirrelParticipant
Did the reverse bleed on the system, after throwing the rear wheel on I tested it and it works perfect. All my weak clutch/ stalling issues are fixed now! Feel is much better due to the stiffer return spring, definitely worth the money.
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